Thursday 25 May
Ascension Day is a public holiday in France, and the tradition here is to meet at the home of the Reader, John Errey, way out in the country, for Eucharist and a shared lunch in a big marquee in the garden. A small gazebo was added to give a bit of shade around the altar, this being one of the hottest days. I supplemented an old sermon with some thoughts on prayer, based on the Archbishops’ initiative “Thy kingdom come”. Someone thanked me for my enthusiasm. Lunch was a barbecue of sausages and burgers, including some pea burgers for the vegetarians,a variety of salads, and a wonderful selection of desserts, to which I had contributed a pummet of apricots. There are no buses today so John Arthur had to drive into Pau to pick me up and drop me off.
Friday
John took me for a walk in the Pyrenees. This time I was able to get a bus to his local station and a train back in the evening. We drove up steep and winding roads to a car park near the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, and walked up the GR10 to two lakes, total ascent 438 m according to my step counter. Because the train back was at 4:18, we did not have time to continue to the pass which is over 2000 m above sea level. On the way back we stopped at a small Templar chapel from the 12th century and sang Laudate Omnes Gentes. Stopped off for a quick snack at John’s where Hilary had made scones.
Saturday
I had thought of walking the next bit of the Arles Camino, but was doubtful about trains back from Oloeon Ste Marie. Instead, I retraced a previous walk as far as the footbridge near Laroin, following 7 girls on horseback and their leader on a bicycle for the last bit of the way. Then crossed the river and walked round the Lacs de Laroin. Lovely contrast between the noisy river and the peaceful lakes. The area around the lakes is reserved for camping/fishing, with a separate entrance for each pitch – luxury. There was no obvious alternative to going back the way I had come, making a third walk along this stretch. Once again, when I reached St Jacques church, there was a very long queue for ice cream so I didn’t stop.
Sunday
Peter Naylor preached what he thinks might be his last sermon. He told me he retired 20 years ago and is 86. He had invited me to join some of his friends for lunch after the service, which was way out of my normal price range, a menu at 42 € and quite a lot of wine. Slow service, good conversation. Went for a walk round the forest afterwards thinking to get the shuttle bus back, but it had stopped running at 17:40.
Monday
Lunch with John and Hilary, then John drove me to the airport along a scenic route, crossing Chemin Henri IV. Met some people who had been at the Ascension Day service seeing off their friends.
I shall only have two full days at home before taking off for Heidelberg.
