One change to the programme: rather than the scheduled wine-tasting, Rafik stocked up on his favourites at the old covered market in Yerevan, to be shared over dinner in Goris.
The next stop was to take photos of the popular view with Mount Ararat, across the border in Turkey, in the background, and the hill of Khor Vihap in the foreground. Then we proceeded to Khor Vihap. Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned in a pit here. On his release, he converted the King and Armenia became the world’s first officially Christian country in 301.
“Jesus Christ is the same, yesterday, today and for ever.”
After exploring the monastery built on the site, I climbed the hill and looked over the border into Turkey. The way down was difficult.
Followed a scenic gorge to Noravank. Best lunch yet, half a dozen salads, honey roasted chicken, and almond tart.
A complex of monasteries, with ruins from a ninth century chapel, and an “academy”, and two main chapels, one by Momik, a famous C13 architect. Both had double tympani over the entrance, one showing God breathing life into Adam whose head he holds in one hand while the other blesses a crucifix (not shown on photo).
Finally, a three-year drive to Goris, in which we were held up by flocks of sheep and goats and a herd of cows escorted by two riders on horseback. And entertained by Rafik telling us some Radio Yerevan jokes from Soviet times: “Rado Yerevan says, ‘In principle yes, but …’ ”
Evening meal in the hotel, with 4 bottles of wine between 15 (the red was the best), and reasonably priced at 4000 dram (about £6) for starters (including aubergine slices rolled around cheese and asparagus tips), dolmas, and fruit, water and coffee.
emeritablog: life after work 