THE NEXT STAGE

After splitting the easy stage of the Voie d’Arles (GR653) from Morlaàs to Artiguelouve between two hot days, I had found ideal weather for the more challenging continuation to Oloron Sainte Marie: low 20s, overcast, very little rain.

Just as well, as there are no drop-out points served by public transport, so I need to cover about 30 km to Oloron in time for the last train to Pau.

The first part took me from the statue of St James the pilgrim to the pilgrim passage emerging in Lacommande by the medieval buildings where a medieval pilgrim hostel is being restored.

This was quite fast walking, and I didn’t stop for water or even look at my watch until I came to a T junction with no waymarks, which I could not identify on the map and route description in the Topoguide. I guessed wrongly, but found a way via the D road which was not much longer.

Now rather more aware of the need to keep track of where I was, I followed a track into the forest. A rough downhill path made me get out my trekking pole, and when I crossed the road at the Laring valley I discovered that my pace had slowed down.

About 700 metres further on, the track wad blocked by fallen trees. I tried to scramble up the slope, where there were some footmarks, but decided that even if I managed to pass this obstacle there could be others. So, back to the road, hoping that I could get to Oloron that way.

Passing a house, two dogs ran out to me, not threatening but barking loudly. So much so, that their owner called them in. I took the opportunity to ask him if I was on the right road. Fortunately, he was able to point out another path up the hill which rejoined the GR653 where it emerges from the forest.

This brought me to the Heights of Estialescq, and I found a picnic bench outside a house for my lunch break. My watch told me I had now walked 20 km, and the Topoguide suggested it could be another 13 to go. There was a good view looking back over the fields I had crossed, but it was only on leaving the spot that I realised there were even better views, between the houses, in the other direction of the cloud-topped hills beyond Oloron.

A bit further on, there were picnic benches with a water tap and a guest book for pilgrims to write in. Disappointed by the low water pressure, I didn’t bother to get the book out of its box on a tree.

Soon after that, I heard three walkers behind me. They soon overtook. Local people out for a little 8km walk among the hills. After our paths diverged, came the most tedious and discouraging part of the walk, with frequent changes of both horizontal and vertical directions.

At last I came out of the wood and on to the D24 which would take me into Oloron. I looked at my watch. It was 4:30. Now I could stop worrying. I reached Notre Dame church (which I mistook for the Cathedral) as the clock struck 5, went in for a short prayer, and continued to the station, arriving at 17:25 in good time for a beer before the 18:20 train, which wasn’t even the last one of the day.

When I called this post “The next stage”, I realised this could have a double meaning.

Finishing the walk makes me more confident about the prolonged Camino walk a plan for September/October. Perhaps not the Camino del Norte, but something in France: Paris to Le Puy if I can get hold of the guidebook, or the whole Voie d’Arles, from Arles to Puente la Reina.