Sandanski – Melnik – Rozhen
Sandanski
What was this place? A resort? A market town? Certainly, there were plenty of hotels on our way in last night, and streets of small shops where the bus dropped us off for “free time”. Without waiting for further instruction, I strode away up the street. So I did not realize that there would be time to visit the archaeological museum and discover the connection between the ruins and the poster of the basilica in the photos below. My notebook was filling up fast, and I bought a new one at a stationers’.
Melnik
The next stop was Melnik, a village which had about 8000 inhabitants in its heyday, and about 200 now. It is remarkable for the limestone pillars overlooking the valley. We walked up the steep cobbled street and an even steeper path to a house with wine cellars owned by the same family for the last 280 years.
The upper rooms are furnished in traditional style: salon with benches and cushions for reclining (left), a bedroom with an Ottoman-style fireplace, and a roof garden in the shape of Bulgaria.
We then descended to the tunnels where wine was stored at an even temperature, finishing with a tasting of three of the wines they produce.
Coming down the path, I noted the ruins of a chapel dedicated to St Barbara. There’s a village pub named after her, too.
Rozhen
After a lunch of bean soup, pork fillet and a slice of pumpkin, we visited Rozhen Monastery, founded in the XIIIth century, with the main church building dating from the XVth century.
The road up was too steep for our bus, so our guide negotiated lifts with local drivers. I insisted on walking up, and found a steep footpath which claimed to get me there in 10 minutes. I reckon it took me 15, but I was by no means the last to arrive.
After visiting the church, we saw the refectory, with a long table and stunning views. On returning outside, we learned that Liz Truss had resigned as Prime Minister. So, when we reached our night’s stop at Bansko, I had half an hour listening to the Today programme on my phone before we went out for dinner, which began, appropriately enough, with a huge plate of lettuce.
emeritablog: life after work 