Toledo

This is where beginneth my Camino of 2018.

Toledo was the site of the fifth convent founded by St Teresa, 450 years ago.  There will be a special concert in her honour in the cathedral on October 19, but we shall have gone our separate ways by then, Gordon to stay with a friend in Malaga and I to return to the pilgrim ministry in Santiago.

The train I meant to get from Madrid was full, so Gordon reached the hostel an hour and a half before me.  Our only sightseeing together was the Cathedral, where we spent an hour waiting for the market to reopen after the siesta, and later returned for Mass.

It gives the impression of a lot of separate spaces.  Even the sanctuary is separated from the choir, with empty space between the two.  The sacristies have been converted into an art gallery, with a set of El Greco portraits of the apostles.  Most of the chapels were closed by iron gates, and the one where the Mass was celebrated was in three parts: a fenced-off area within the main cathedral space with its own street entrance for worshippers only; then through the glass doors to a quieter space for prayer; and finally, heavy iron gates can be opened to give access to the final chapel with a double row of pews on each side (and decent kneelers)!

There was plenty to see: much golden baroque, the carvings on the sedillas in the choir, and a huge mural painting of St Cristobal (Christopher) carrying the Christ child. Of course there was a chapel of St James. But, to my joy there was also one of St Teresa.