After two days of frequent encounters with the main road N403, yesterday was delightful. For much of the time we were following Via Pecuria, which, judging from its logo, was an old drovers’ road, and is still used for taking cattle to summer pastures – we saw the evidence, but not the cows.
We walked through woodland, and up the Hill of Three Crosses, where we stopped for lunch. I hoped to see three crosses at the top, but there weren’t any. The Camino goes down a steep firebreak, but we followed the alternative suggested in the guidebook, a wide bumpy track. If the roads were like this, or worse, in Teresa’s day, I understand why her coach journey from Escalona to Avila was uncomfortable.
Much cooler today – clouds, wind, altitude as well as plenty of shade from the trees and some enormous rocks.
We had booked a self-catering apartment for 80 euros, and saved some of that by making our own dinner. As we were finishing at 6:30, we heard church bells and guessed there might be a Mass at 7. We got there in time. Large congregation for a weekday, and very enthusiastic Spanish priest.
emeritablog: life after work 